The first sip of this wine was like getting a smack for having opened it so soon. The acidity is sharp and unforgiving against the stony flavors; the tautness of the structure gives the wine the snap of a rubber band. But that’s a good sign: Clearly, this wine has something to protect—like the pristinely ripe, clean fruit it eventually reveals in scents of Meyer lemons and tart gooseberries, green pears and tangy pineapple. Pulled from old vines, most of them on their own roots, and vinified in stainless steel with ambient yeasts, it’s regal and restrained. In keeping with JJ Prüm’s age-worthy style, this is set to develop well over the next decade or more.
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