A blend of 50 percent Cinsault with Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, this comes off a vineyard planted 3,280 feet above sea level more than half a century ago. Cinsault’s sour cherry flavor and light, gauzy texture headline the wine, while darker notes of earth, smoke and berry fruit remain in the background. The balance completely upends the usual expectations, the wine more about fragrance than weight, in the most delightful, palate-whetting way. Play it up with salmon seasoned with sumac.
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