Jean-Louis Chave makes Circa from a parcel of roussanne grown on granite, an interesting counterpoint to the roussanne he grows in Hermitage on clay and limestone (also recommended here). While it has roussanne’s russetted flavors—roasted almonds and pears, savory honey and spice—it feels brisk and firm, energized by fresh, cool acidity that tempers the wine’s oily richness and focuses the attention instead on its delicacy.
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